If a hot tub has more than one pump, you’re probably stuck with a 240-volt system. You can either hardwire it to your panel, or attach a cord with a GFCI-equipped plug on it so you can simply plug it in. That means it’s got the same pump/motor/heating element/controls/electronics as a 240-volt hot tub, except you can set it to 120-volt mode. If you want a “real hot tub” but 240-volts is not an option, you might want to consider a “convertible” model. If a hot tub is an important purchase, it would be false economy to go for one of these. They are poorly made with cheap materials, don’t perform well and have a short life expectancy. The equipment and electronics are in a sealed unit that can’t be fixed, and parts are not available so they’re basically “disposable”. Some of them work off a heat recovery system using the heat from the pump to warm the water so they take forever to heat up and often cannot maintain max temperature in cold weather. No hot tub repairperson would consider them to be “real hot tubs”. ![]() ![]() That’s what I think of when I see some of these cheap “plug & play” units. Remember those Easy-Bake Ovens? The one my sister had was heated by an incandescent light bulb and she’d make her brothers eat the yucky muffins she’d proudly “baked”. ![]() For some people, this may not be an option due to cost, electrical limitations or strata regulation. Generally speaking, hot tubs come standard as 240-volt systems and that’s the better way to go if you can swing it.Ī 240-volt system needs to be hardwired (i.e., cannot be plugged in), and requires special wiring with a double-wide breaker in your panel and a code usually requires a dedicated subpanel installed near the tub as well. Might a plug & play hot tub be a good option for you? Read this through to understand the answer to that question. Plug and Play Hot Tub – Are Plug and Play Hot Tubs Any Good? 10) We Buy Good Tubs and Recycle Scrappers.3) New & Used Covers, Lifters & Electronic Covers.
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